No matter how you wear your makeup, there is one universal truth – it has to get from bottle, palette or cake to your face somehow.

Of course, with foundations and the like there’s the age-old method of fingertip application – unfortunately, that’s not only messy but unsanitary. Not to mention, when it comes to shadow or liner application, the fingertip method isn’t always the most accurate.

While fingertip application has its advantages (like touching up a blemish while out in public, helping to blot lipstick, or keeping foundation super sheer), chances are at least one part of your daily makeup routine will involve a brush of some sort. Whether you use a brush for every cosmetic item that comes near your face or just for certain products, everyone can use a little cosmetic brush 101.

When should you use a cosmetic brush?

Some people (myself included) use a brush of some form for everything. Foundation to lipstick, there’s very little that touches my face, cosmetic-wise, that doesn’t involve a brush of some sort.

• Foundation – Foundation brushes provide maximum coverage. While they’re not as easy to use as pouring foundation onto a sponge (which provides a medium coverage) or dabbing it on with your fingertips (which provides a very sheer coverage), foundation brushes can not only evenly distribute foundation all over your face, but reduce waste of your product since they don’t absorb it the same way sponges do. Look for long, flat bristles that are smooth and even in length, with a convex edge.
• Concealer – Concealer brushes generally look like skinny foundation brushes, but tend to be more tapered towards the top for optimum accuracy. Concealer brushes are the best for applying a small amount of product to a blemish due to their narrow stature and firm bristles.
• Powder -- Powder brushes provide even coverage to a large area. Unlike cosmetic rounds (like you’d find in a compact) they distribute powder far more evenly, which helps to eliminate clots and splotchiness. This also includes Kabuki brushes, which are commonly used with mineral makeups. Look for slightly convex edges and long bristles that branch outwards as they go up, for a full, fluffy appearance. Kabuki brushes should be shorter and squatter, with a much coarser texture.
• Blush – Blush brushes are similar to powder brushes, except they’re generally smaller (in diameter) and somewhat coarser. This helps to ensure blush is kept in the target area, while still going on smoothly and evenly, eliminating the Bozo look.
• Shadow – There are a million and one different kinds of shadow brushes, all with different purposes. In my opinion, there are really only three – flat shadow brushes (which often look like mini foundation brushes) to apply color smoothly and evenly to the entire eye area, contour or shading brushes, which are usually angled to apply color to the crease and inner/outer corners with accuracy and precision (also great for filling in brows, if you need that), and blending brushes, which have squatter, coarser bristles to help blend everything together for a seamless look.
• Liner – There’s two types of liner – eye and lip. While they tend to be very similar in appearance, eye liner brushes will often be more petite so they can be used for very precise application. This is especially true of the brushes included in liquid eye liners. Lip liner brushes are generally a little plumper, but with the same tapered top, for maximum lip color coverage that’s evenly distributed, while also allowing for the accuracy needed to line and define the edge of the lips.

What should you look for in a cosmetic brush?

Like most things in life, you get what you pay for. There are decent synthetic brushes on the market (meaning the bristles of the brush are plastic or some other man-made material), but natural hair (which means the bristles are actual hair – most commonly sable or camel) certainly has its advantages. They are generally more expensive, but will last far longer, be easier to clean and give you a far more even and natural application. You also want to “test” a brush before you buy, and I don’t mean the one that’s on display and has had a million and two hands on it before you were ever born. Taking the brush you intend to buy out of its packaging (ask a store associate for help before you do this – it keeps your butt in the clear if anything goes wrong and helps put their mind at ease) and running your hands gently over the bristles can tell you a lot about the brush. While most brushes are treated with a product to help them retain their shape while they’re sitting on the shelf waiting to be bought that can make them a little stiff, feeling them straight out of the package will give you a far better idea of the actual brush texture than the display model that’s probably been pawed a thousand times in the last week. Something else you want to watch for when testing a brush is how many bristles come out in your hand with gentle stroking. A dozen or so coming out on the first couple strokes is normal – but after that, you shouldn’t have bristles falling out in your hands or sticking up past the general profile of the brush.  You also want to make sure the handle is comfortable in you hand – something that’s often overlooked as “cosmetic” and unimportant. But if the handle is too long, too short, too fat or otherwise unpleasant to hold and use, chances are, you won’t.

How should you care for your brushes?

Once you’ve invested in your brushes, you want to make sure you care for them properly to increase their lifespan. Shorter, coarser bristles will take more abuse than longer, softer bristles which is something to keep in mind when determining how much you want to spend on a brush. If it’s something you plan to use daily or use for vigorous shading or blending, save yourself the headache of replacing it every six months and buy a quality brush. Use a pre-moistened brush cleansing towelette or a gentle soap/shampoo to clean your brushes once a month or so, when switching between products, after using any liquid product (the brush in liquid eyeliner being the exception) or after anyone else uses them to avoid cross contamination. After washing your brushes, lay them on a dry, flat surface to dry so they retain their shape and once dry, fluff lightly with your hand to bring back their fullness. Invest in a separate case just for your brushes, so that you can store them between uses without unnecessary abuse that can cause the bristles to lose their shape.

A good, high quality set of brushes can be the absolute best addition to any makeup routine. Once you experience the joy of brushes that don’t shed, break, bend, streak or clump you’ll wonder how you ever lived without them.

*Photos from brushes-manufacturers.com, thebodyshop.com, ilinecosmetics.com, bbc.co.uk, yournextgift.com.