With the popularity of hair extensions amongst the glitter-gilded stars of Hollywood (Beyonce, Paris Hilton, Jessica Simpson, Halle Berry), they are now the mainstream and are much more accessible to women (and men) in all walks of life. Whether you want to add body and fullness, a lot of length or just a little, there is quite possibly a hair extension right for every woman.

Now, the only question is which hair extension is right for you?

To begin with, know that hair extensions do require work to maintain, and without proper care and maintenance, can lead to disaster.

Before you consider any type of extension technique, there are a few things you should ask yourself:

• Why do I want extensions?  Do I want more length, body or both?
• How much money am I willing to spend on having extensions applied to my hair?
• How much time and money am I willing to spend on maintenance of my extensions once they've been applied?
• What kind of maintenance do I currently do to my hair that may be a concern?
• Do I dye my hair a brand new color every month?
• Do I touch up a color, perm or relaxer every three weeks?
• Do I have at least an inch or more of hair, so that extensions can successfully be applied to my hair?
• Am I going to want to heat style my extensions, or am I satisfied with wearing them the same way they looked walking out of the salon every day?
• Honestly, what kind of shape is my hair in currently? Is it fine and thinning? Dry and damaged?
• How long am I going to want to wear my extensions?
• Are they for a special occasion, in which case they may become bothersome after the event is over? Or, do I want long term wear out of them, the longer, the better?

Truthfully and honestly answering these questions is the first step in figuring out which hair extension is best suited to you and your lifestyle. Like a good cut or color, knowing as much as possible about what you do and don't want will make the difference between being a happy camper or a disgruntled diva.
 

The next thing to consider is whether or not you want a human hair extension or a synthetic hair extension.

Naturally, there are pros and cons to both, and your answers to several of the above questions will help you determine which is best for you.

Human hair extensions are just that -- human hair.

Because they are human hair, they can be heat styled, colored or otherwise chemically treated, shampooed and conditioned, just like you would your own hair. Human hair is more expensive, for what should be obvious reasons, especially when you start looking at Premium or Remy human hair. Remy hair is human hair that has been more carefully harvested and processed so that all (or darn near all) of the cuticles run in the same direction. What does this mean for you? It means the hair is smoother, softer, more "caucasian" in texture, and will more often than not have a consistent length from track (the bit of material the hair is attached to) to end.

Synthetic hair extensions are a fancy way of saying plastic.

Yup, just like Barbie. Because synthetic hair is plastic, it cannot withstand heat from flat irons or blow dryers so it's very difficult to style in any fashion aside from the way it was manufactured. It also can't stand up to chemical treatments, and while it should be shampooed and conditioned with products designed for synthetic hair when it starts to get grungy, it will start to lose its shape and luster after a couple of washings. Synthetic hair is far more affordable for the average woman though, and if you're looking for a fall (clip on piece like a ponytail or a twister to wrap around a bun) or a special event one-time-use piece, can be a good deal. There are new synthetic hairs available on the market now (i.e., Kanekalon), which claim to be heat resistant up to a certain temperature (usually about 250 degrees Fahrenheit), but from my experience they have a 50/50 chance of living up to the hype versus being a melty mess on your bathroom counter (God forbid you have it in your hair should it decide to melt), and it still won't stand up to any kind of permanent chemical treatment.
 

Once you've decided which type of hair will most suit your needs, you should start considering how you want the extensions applied to your hair.

Just like the type of hair, each method has its own pros and cons. Remember -- be honest with yourself, and your stylist if applicable, before any extension is applied to your hair. Nobody likes a disgruntled diva, even your closest friends who are nice enough not to say anything about it to you.

There are several methods for applying hair extensions, ranging from relatively cheap to insanely expensive, temporary to several months of wear. Below are (in my opinion) the five most common types of extension, ranging from shortest lifespan to longest lasting.

 

FALLS

As previously mentioned, falls are pieces that temporarily add length or style to the hair by use of a clip, comb, elastic or other accessory. Falls are temporary, only because they are clipped into or wrapped around hair during the day/evening/event, and removed before sleeping, swimming or showering. Most often, falls add flair to an up-do (think a cluster of curls you can wrap around a bun) or length and style to a ponytail (which give you a perfect ponytail by simply pulling your own hair into a ponytail or a twist and clipping the piece over the top). Falls are great for mornings when you're running late and still want or need to look perfect and polished, for adding that extra special touch to an up-do for a night on the town, and for women who like a lot of style for very little maintenance. Easy to apply yourself at home, no stylist is necessary (unless you would need your fall cut or shaped before wearing) and they are generally easy to find at beauty supply stores, wig shops and even trendy stores in your local mall. However, most falls are synthetic hair, which leaves few options for switching things up if you tire of the style. On the flip side, most synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair (celebrity name pieces being the usual exception), so buying two or three in different styles isn't necessarily going to break the bank.

Photo Courtesy of HairExtensions.com

The verdict:
Falls add length to ponytails and body to up-dos, they are usually inexpensive and easy to apply and care for yourself, can be worn on hair that's thinning or damaged with little to no consequences, and can be easily worn everyday or just once in a while. They may not be as beneficial to the hair color chameleon or the spontaneous style sampler as they would to women who have settled on a hair color and who are comfortable with the same style day to day or event to event.

 

CLIP IN EXTENSIONS

Not to be confused with a fall, clip in extensions allow more versatility with the ability to be worn up or down. Clip in extensions are most often found in one of two ways -- either on what's called a three quarter wig (meaning the hair and clips are sewn to a "cap", like a wig, and you gather the top layer of your hair, secure the extension below it with your remaining hair tucked inside the cap, and let your hair fall down over the top of it) or in multi-track pieces (which allows you eight or 10 lengths of hair with clips sewn on to them, which you can place wherever you like through your hair). I personally am a fan of the multi-track extensions, because I feel they allow for a more natural blending of your hair into the hair of the extension, thus providing a more natural look. Either way, clip on extensions can be worn while sleeping and showering (although it's not recommended) and are easy to put in yourself, which eliminates the need of a stylist, unless of course you want your extensions cut, colored or shaped. Clip in extensions can be found in either synthetic or human hair, allowing a great deal of styling versatility, but can range in price from moderately inexpensive (for synthetic pieces without a celebrity name attached) to insanely expensive (for human hair pieces with a celebrity name attached.)

Photo Courtesy of HairExtensions.com

The verdict:
Clip in extensions can add length and body to hair worn up or down, can cater to a varying degree of budgets and are easy to apply and maintain at home. Clip ins can be worn on thinning or damaged hair with little to no consequences, can be worn everyday or saved for special occasions, and assuming they are of the human hair variety, can be colored, chemically treated or heat styled to suit your every whim.

 

BONDED EXTENSIONS (also known as glued extensions):

Bonded extensions use hair that's on a track (as previously mentioned, hair that has been sewn into a thin piece of fabric) known as a weft. The weft is cut into smaller pieces and bonded or glued into your hair. Heat is often applied to help the bond "take." Bonded extensions can allow for up to six weeks of wear, if properly taken care of. What exactly is proper care of a bonded extension? Proper care includes use of a special line of shampoos, conditioners and styling products for weaves and extensions which use fewer oils than traditional hair care products, thus extending the life of the bond by providing less interference to the latex based glue which can loosen with exposure to oils. Proper care also includes gentle brushing when the hair is dry (looped over to keep from catching in the tracks and pulling them out), avoiding the urge to yank on tangles in the ends of the hair, pick at tracks which may be lifting, or scratching at the site of the bonded tracks. Of course, the list goes on, but these are just a few things to consider with a bonded extension. They should be applied by a professional, as well as maintained by a professional whenever you see any signs of the tracks lifting or falling out, and removed by a professional, who can minimize the damage done to your hair when it comes to getting all of the excess glue out.  Bonded extensions require a special oil remover to break down the latex based glue, and can often leave a sticky residue in the hair for days after the extensions have been removed.  Bonded extensions can also pull on hair that's already thin or damaged, leading to further damage, breakage, and inhibition of the natural growth process of your hair.  Another thought worth noting is that since the glue used to bond these kinds of extensions to your existing hair does contain latex it can bring on an allergic reaction, ranging from mild itching and discomfort to blistering and bleeding of the scalp.  Allergies can spring up at any time, so it's a very serious thought to keep in mind when considering this type of extension.

Photo Courtesy of HairExtensions.com

The verdict:
Bonded extensions can add length and body to hair worn up or down, are generally moderately priced, considering not only the cost of the hair, but the labor to have them applied, maintained and removed, and are generally human hair, but synthetic hair can be used. With up to six weeks of wear, they offer a more permanent extension solution, but your hair does need to rest between full head applications in order to prevent unnecessary damage. Bonded extensions aren't the best option for anyone whose hair is already weakened or breaking from damage, thinning or falling out, since there is a moderate to high risk of hair loss and/or breakage during the removal process. These are also not a good option for anyone who has a latex allergy or sensitivity, or for anyone who's not willing to spend a little extra time and effort to be gentle with their hair. Frequent coloring or chemical treatment can pose a concern as well.

 

WEAVES

Weaves are extensions that have been sewn into the hair using a special needle and thread. Hair is first corn rolled or otherwise braided, and the tracks of hair, cut from a weft, are sewn into the braids. Allowing six to eight weeks of wear between touch ups, woven extensions should be applied, maintained and removed by your stylist. Care for weaves is very similar to care for bonded extensions, with extra emphasis on keeping your hands off your scalp as much as possible to prevent unnecessary loosening of the braids.  While this method of extension is slightly better for your hair than bonded extensions, the tight braids needed to sew the tracks to can often cause headache and discomfort, and over time, can weaken your hair leading to breakage and inhibiting natural hair growth. Maintenance includes tightening the braids and replacing any damaged tracks of hair and removal is done by cutting the threads holding the extensions in place.

Photo Courtesy of TheWigs.com

The verdict:
Weaves can provide length and body but tend to be slightly more expensive than bonded extensions due to the labor of first braiding the hair and then sewing the tracks to the braids.  Follow-up maintenance visits can be a little more expensive as well. Weaves can be human hair or synthetic, so they can offer a wide range of styling versatility, but are not a good option for anyone whose hair may be weak, breaking or damaged. Also, if you suffer from headaches, migraines or tension in your scalp, this probably isn't your best option. Frequent hair coloring or chemical treatment can also pose a concern.

 

FUSION EXTENSIONS (also known as I-Tip extensions):

Perhaps the newest addition to the hair extension family is the Fusion or I-Tip extension. Allowing for up to six months of wear, with proper care, these extensions are probably the most permanent option on the market at present. Fusion extensions are applied strand by strand, giving a much more natural appearance to the final result, but is also a much more costly procedure since the hair itself is not only more expensive, but the application procedure is much more time- and labor-intensive. Links (small plastic pieces used to clamp each extension to a strand of your own hair), glue gun (small amounts of a special hot glue are applied to the end of each extension with a glue gun, similar to what you'd find in any craft or hardware store) and glue pots (the end of each extension is dipped in hot glue before being applied to a stand of your own hair) are the most popular methods of application. Fusion extensions are much more gentle on your hair than bonded extensions or weaves, allowing for natural hair growth and coloring/chemical treatment. Maintenance generally involves little more than your stylist replacing some of the strands which have fallen out, and removal is done with a special plier to remove links, or a special bond removing solvent to soften the hot glue. Care is basically the same as with a bonded extension or weave, without the consequences of breakage or damage upon removal.

The Verdict:
Fusion hair extensions can add length and body, but tend to be rather expensive due to the cost of supplies and labor involved. Well worth the cost, if you can afford it, fusion extensions are an option for women with hair that's previously damaged or thinning, since they offer little to no risk of damage or breakage resulting from removal. I have yet to see a synthetic fusion extension, although I'm sure they probably exist, which allows for heat and chemical styling, and are far more forgiving than bonded extensions or weaves when it comes to color or chemical touch ups.

While cost and longevity are probably the two most important factors in deciding on what type of extension will fit best into your lifestyle, previous damage and styling options certainly play an important role. Not every type of extension is right for every woman at every point in her life, and with so many things to consider when selecting an application method and a type of hair, extensions are not a subject to be taken lightly or a decision to make on a whim.

Weigh the pros and cons of each before you decide, and with longer wearing methods of application, make sure you ask your stylist for a consultation to discuss what he or she feels may be your best option and to answer any further questions you may have about your hair's condition, your lifestyle, maintenance and general care.

My suggestion for anyone wanting to give extensions a try, especially anyone who's grown accustomed to wearing his or her hair very short and who may end up being shocked and inconvenienced by the end result, is to check into clip in human hair extensions before you make an appointment with your stylist.

Clip ins have come a long way in versatility, comfort and a natural-looking end result, making them easy to use, easy to wear and even easier to love. Still generally a fraction of the cost of longer wearing options, clip in extensions are a great way to try out your new look before committing to something you may regret before you ever leave your stylist's chair.

Happy hair-hunting!