Hair color is probably one of the biggest mysteries in the beauty and fashion community as well as one of the most popular practices. Unfortunately, hair color can be an easy thing to mess up. But, if you know a few basics, hair color can also be one of the easiest things to do yourself.

I think most people are intimidated by hair color. It's chemical and it's mixing and it's going on your head -- definitely more than a few reasons to be intimidated. And, if you're looking for a drastic change, considering multiple processes, or if you're terrified by the thought of it, then by all means, go have it done professionally. But if you're interested in giving it a shot yourself, here are some basic things to know to help you with the process.

LEVEL
The first step is to determine levels.

You have to have a rough idea of what level you're at and what level you want to be at. The good news is, most companies that produce hair color have agreed to stick to a basic level system to make life easier for the rest of us. Natural hair color levels range from one to 10, one being black, 10 being your lightest blonde. With artificial hair color, levels will go up to 12, meaning that hair color is classified as a high lift color (more about this in a few).

1 -- Black
2 -- Darkest Brown
3 -- Dark Brown
4 -- Medium Brown
5 -- Light Brown
6 -- Dark Blonde
7 -- Medium Blonde
8 -- Light Blonde
9 -- Very Light Blonde
10 -- Lightest Blonde

If you're looking for a subtle change, you'll want to stay within one to two levels of your natural color.

EXAMPLE: If you're a level 5 light brown, go no darker than a level 3 or no lighter than a level 7.

If you're going darker, it's still a good idea to stay a couple levels lighter than what you want, because not only is it easier to go darker than lighter, but most people find that when going darker, hair color looks dramatically darker than they expected. If you're going darker to lighter, you'll probably have to do some extra work to get to where you want to be.
 

Don't confuse the hair color level with the permanence level many "box colors" (what you get at the grocery store) use. Some box colors list the color level, but generally use the word level to determine whether a color is temporary (level one), semi-permanent (level two) or permanent (level three).  What it boils down to is figuring out if you want to go lighter or darker, and by how much, or if you're happy with your level and want to stay about the same and just change the base.

BASE
Next, you have to figure out what base color you want. Base color is what color (or colors) is used to make the shade you're going to apply.

For example, say you want a dark brown. Do you want a dark, golden brown, a dark, reddish brown, a dark, ashy brown...? That's where base color comes into play.

Base colors are grouped into two tonal families. Red, orange, yellow and gold make up your warm tonal family. Green (which is TRUE ash, however, due to the sometimes unpredictable nature of green, all cool colors are generally referred to as an ash), olive, blue and violet are your cool or ash tonal family (there are also neutral or natural colors, which we’ll get to in a few).  For the best results, stick to a color that has a base in the same tonal family as that with which you are naturally blessed (or cursed -- however you may view it). To figure out if you are naturally warm or cool:

Warm:
Warm complexions have yellow, peach or red undertones.

Eyes that are:

• Green, green blue or turquoise
• Golden brown
• Hazel with gold or brown flecks

Skin that is:

• Brown with pink undertone
• Brown with golden undertone
• Pale with peach or gold undertones
• Freckled
• Ruddy
• Golden brown, when tan

Hair that is naturally:

• Deep brown with gold or red highlights
• Red
• Strawberry blonde
• Medium golden brown
• Golden blonde
• Grey with a yellowish cast

Cool:
Cool complexions have pink, violet or blue undertones.

Eyes that are:

• Deep brown or black-brown
• Gray blue or dark blue
• Hazel with white, gray or blue flecks

Skin that is:

• Very dark brown
• True olive (most Asians and Latinos)
• Medium with no color in cheeks
• Medium with faint pink cheeks
• Medium with golden undertones
• Pale with no color in cheeks
• Pale with pink undertones
• Brown or bronze when I tan

Hair that is naturally:

• Blue black
• Deepest coffee brown
• Medium ash brown
• Dishwater blonde
• Salt and pepper
• White

Professional hair colors (that can be bought at a beauty supply store) will more often than not tell you what the base color is. If you're using box colors (which I don't recommend because results are far less predictable, but I understand that a lot of people do, so...) it can be a little trickier.

WARM:

Look for words like sunny, copper, strawberry, golden, spicy, bronze, auburn, mahogany, blushing, fiery, honey, cinnamon, caramel.

COOL:

Look for words like ash, iridescent, crystal, sandy, chestnut, sable, platinum, arctic, flaxen, winter, icy, wheat, twilight, moonlit, drab, ivory, smoky.

Hair color is also offered in clear or neutral tones, which are great if you want to change your level but not your base. Clear/neutral tones will not deposit any new base color, but play off of what you naturally have in your hair. This is also the absolute safest way to go if you’re unsure whether you’re warm or cool.  Look for boxes that say natural, neutral or that don't use any descriptive adjectives along with the name of the color.

EXAMPLE: Dark Blonde. Medium Brown. Natural Black.

Also, consider that base color can be used to neutralize unwanted tones in hair. By adding an artificial base color that's the same as your natural base color or the same as artificial color you already have in your hair, it can be too much of a good thing. This is generally only a huge concern for lighter shades, when too much warmth can be "brassy" and too much ash can give hair a blue or green tint. The best thing to do is to pick a color you like and follow the product's individual instructions. If it ends up being too brassy or too ashy, you can apply a contrasting color to neutralize those unwanted tones.

CONTRASTING COLORS:

• Red -- Green
• Orange -- Blue
• Yellow -- Violet

So, green will neutralize red and red will neutralize green, orange will neutralize blue and blue will neutralize orange and yellow will neutralize violet and violet will neutralize yellow.

PERMANENCE
Okay...you've figured out level and base color. Now you have to decide how long you want your color to last.

Unfortunately, if you're going lighter, permanent color and bleach are your only real options. But if you're going darker or keeping the same level and just changing the base, you have lots of options.

TEMPORARY: Temporary color will last one to two shampoos. This can range from spray-in hair colors that come in a variety of colors and which can be quite bold, to hair mascaras and color rinses. You can layer colored sprays so that the color is intense and dramatic. Mascaras generally show up well on lighter hair and will give a more subtle "cast" of color to darker hair (basically, you'll see it if the light hits it just right). Rinses are very subtle and give a hint of color to hair. These can be great to add a reddish cast to dark hair or to enhance lighter shades, but going from very light to very dark can produce a muddy effect and using very bright reds on lighter hair can leave you looking pink. It's gentle on hair. General timing is five to 25 minutes, depending on porosity (how porous hair is...damaged hair tends to be more porous, therefore will soak up color faster) and resistance (grey hair, for example, is generally very resistant and will need a few extra minutes for color to soak in). Fine hair will probably need less time than coarse hair.

It's always best to do a strand test before any coloring, to determine exact timing, sensitivity to chemicals and exactly how your results will turn out before you slather it all over your head. A patch test, on the inside of the elbow, is also a great thing to do before actually coloring to determine product sensitivity. Just mix equal parts of color and developer and apply to the inside of the elbow. Let set, as undisturbed as possible, for 12-24 hours and make sure there's no burning, itching, redness, rash, etc., before proceeding with a color process. For a strand test, do the same, but apply to a strand of hair you've snipped from your head or pick a strand underneath that won't be noticeable if things don't turn out so hot.

SEMI-PERMANENT: Semi-permanent color will generally last six to 12 shampoos. Manic Panic, Punky Color, N Rage and several other unnatural hair colors fall in the semi-permanent category, as do Natural Instincts, Color Spa and Loving Care in the box color department. Color can be dramatic and bold upon application, but will fade with each shampoo. A great way to try a color and make sure you like it before committing to anything long term. Semi-permanent color is also great for special occasions. And, since it fades all over, you don't have the dreaded line of demarcation (also known as ROOTS). However, semi-permanent color can be time consuming long term (since you're applying every couple weeks), can stain bed clothes, towels and regular clothes while hair is wet and can run if it gets wet (think, caught in the rain in a white shirt). Semi color can be easy though, since it's usually good to go straight out of the bottle, on towel dried hair. Gentle on hair. General timing is five to 25 minutes.

DEMI-PERMANENT: Demi color generally lasts between 12 and 24 shampoos, some even a little longer. Raw Color and Special FX fall into the demi color category for unnatural hair color. All the benefits of a semi color, but the fade is more gradual and there is a little less risk of staining and running while wet. The bad news is, if you hate the color, you can be stuck with it that much longer. Demi colors require a little more work than semi colors, because they do need to be mixed with an activator of some kind (most demi brands have a very brand specific activator). An activator, also known as a prompter or any number of different names, is like a developer/peroxide for permanent color, but the percentage of peroxide in an activator is lower than a developer (less than 10%). And, depending on the color, if you have grey or light blonde hair, semi and demi colors can stain the hair long after the expected number of shampoos (reds often leave a pink tinge, violets a purple tinge which seems to be more prevalent on grey hair than blondes and strong blue and green ashes can leave traces of their respective bases). Gentle on hair. General timing in five to 25 minutes.

PERMANENT: Permanent color is just that...permanent. It will fade with time, but it will not eventually wash out. Permanent color chemically changes the hair, so you have to grow it out, cut it off, color over it or use a permanent color remover (which, for the record, also has to be colored over). So, with permanent color, you can expect root growth, which depending on the color you use, may or may not be a big problem. Root growth needs to be touched up every four to six weeks to avoid a noticeable line of demarcation (meaning, if you wait too long between touch ups, the line between the new growth you're coloring over and the existing, already colored hair can be more noticeable, creating an actual line effect). Certain colors can be hard to get out once you've gone permanent, like black. Permanent color will allow you to go lighter or darker than your natural level. You can generally go as dark as you want with a permanent color, and most permanent colors will lighten hair one to three levels. High lift permanent colors often offer up to five levels of lift while depositing color at the same time. Permanent color is the best way to cover grey. Permanent color has to be mixed with a developer/peroxide for it to work. Because permanent color does chemically change the hair, long time use of color can alter your natural color. And, with prolonged use or use on hair that's not healthy, can be damaging. However, permanent color shouldn't stain or run after it's been thoroughly rinsed from hair and offers far more choices in what you can do with your hair. General timing is 15-45 minutes.

BLEACH: Bleach is not a color. Instead, bleach removes melanin from the hair (melanin is the pigment that determines hair color -- the more melanin, the darker the hair) so that a lighter shade (generally blonde or unnatural colors) can be deposited over the hair. If you're very dark and want to go very light, bleach is probably your only option and bleach is designed to be used on virgin hair (hair that has never had a chemical process on it) or hair that has already been stripped of permanent color through the use of a permanent color remover (similar to a bleach, but not quite as harsh and is designed to seek out permanent hair color particles in the hair strand). Bleach can be extremely damaging to hair and should not be used on hair that's overly dry, damaged, brittle or prone to breakage. When bleaching, keep in mind that hair will go through many color stages as melanin is removed...the darker the hair, the more stages it will go through. Towards the end of the bleaching process, hair will turn orange. This is normal and means you have to keep going. After orange is yellow, and after yellow is when you start to soften into blonde shades. When you reach a pale, soft yellow is when you want to rinse and apply color or toner, or keep going with the bleach to reach white for the best application of unnatural colors. Some bleaches now have the ability to bleach and tone at the same time, which is great if you've bleached before and know if you tend to pull too much orange or gold. If you're unsure, stick with a neutral or traditional bleach. Timing with bleach varies...you just have to keep an eye on it and pull it when it's where you want it to be. Also, some bleaches require heat to work properly.

DEVELOPER
Since temporary and semi colors are generally ready to go, and demi colors need their own activator, that leaves the wide world of developers for permanent colors and bleach.

First, you have clear and cream. Both do the same job, however, while clear developers are generally cheaper, cream developers tend to be thicker and easier to use and a little more conditioning to the hair.  If you're using a box color, your developer is included (it's the white stuff in the applicator bottle). If you're using professional colors, you'll have to mix. That's where the confusing part can come in.
Developers are classified by volume. In other words, the lifting or lightening ability of a developer...it's strength. Developer is what opens up the hair cuticle (outer layer of the hair shaft) and lets the color in. It then encourages the oxidation process and helps the color particles expand so they can't get back out (which is what makes a color permanent, whereas temporary, semi and demi colors primarily sit on top of the hair cuticle rather than penetrating). It's also what does the most damage to hair. Using the right developer is critical to determining how your color comes out and getting the results you want as well as not doing any more damage than absolutely necessary to hair.

• 10 VOLUME: Deposits color only, so it won't lighten hair at all. Generally has a demi-permanent effect when mixed with a permanent color.
• 20 VOLUME: Deposit and up to two levels of lift. 20 volume is generally what you want if you're going darker or staying about the same in level.
• 30 VOLUME: Two to three levels of lift, so 30 volume will let you go two to three levels lighter than your natural level.
• 40 VOLUME: Three to four levels of lift. Used with high lift colors (often in double the regular amount) and for faster results with bleach.
•  

MIXING
If you're using a box color, everything is already portioned for you. If you're using a professional color, you'll have to mix your own portions of color and developer.

MOST pro colors are equal parts of color and developer, ounce for ounce (so, one ounce of color and one ounce of developer, to make two ounces of what's known as "working product"). Some brands are different (Wella Color Charm, for example, is DOUBLE developer to color...so one ounce of color to two ounces of developer for three ounces of working product), so read the box, the bottle, or ask if you're unsure. Also, some high lift colors will ask for double developer to color (usually one ounce of color to two ounces of 40 volume developer).

When mixing bleach, you have a little more room for error. You want your mixture creamy enough to stay moist on hair, but thick enough to stay where you put it. While box bleaches are mixed for you and pro bleaches have mixing ratios on them, a good rule of thumb is to mix your bleach to a consistency just a bit thinner than toothpaste.
Make sure your mixture, whether color or bleach, is mixed well for optimal results. Shake or stir vigorously.

APPLICATION
Method of application is personal preference. For all-over color, bottles are probably the best known method of application. For bleach, a bowl and brush will probably be the best way to go, since bleach is thicker and doesn't work so well with a bottle. Use whatever you're comfortable with.

Make sure you'll have enough working product for your hair length and thickness. It's better to have too much than not enough, and you can always mix a little at first and mix more if you need it. If hair is longer than shoulder length, you will want more than one box of box color or more than one bottle/tube of pro color. Color should be applied to dry hair, unless otherwise specified. Most colors will go on dry hair, although there are exceptions to some semi and demi colors. Do your root area first, keeping in mind that includes all of your roots. Anywhere hair is in direct contact with the scalp is root area. Massage the color into the roots gently, avoiding massaging it into the scalp. Then, concentrate on any areas of the hair that may be darker/lighter than the rest of the hair. Finally, apply to the rest of the hair, making sure hair is well saturated. I find using a wide tooth comb and combing my color through helps to ensure that I got everything covered. Pile hair loosely on top of the head and let process.
Hair at the root area will process faster because of the heat produced by the scalp and ends generally soak up more color because they’re more porous.

TIP: If you find you have stubborn areas that are lagging during processing (especially prevalent with bleach and lighter shades), you may consider adding more working product to those areas, or giving those spots a shot with a blow dryer for a few minutes.

HIGHLIGHTS AND LOWLIGHTS
Highlights, when you add streaks of color to the hair that are LIGHTER than the overall color, and lowlights, when you add streaks of color to the hair that are DARKER than the overall color, can be fun, funky, easy to care for and add depth, light and overall beauty to hair.

 Highlights, also known as frosting and tipping, are more common and are traditionally blonde. Lowlights, also known as a reverse frost, can add depth to hair that's been over-lightened or can add drama through contrast.  Box kits generally rely on use of a brush so you can "paint" on the color. Some brushes look like mini paint brushes, some look like mascara wands and some are scary looking things that look like combs on a stick. This method is fine if you're looking for chunky highlights/lowlights, or just want a few strands around the face. However, if you want smaller strands or all over strands, the paint on method can be tedious and messy.

Caps are great because they allow you to add as many or as few strands as you'd like and they do the work of placement for you. They also protect the hair not being processed from getting color on it. Basically, you put on a plastic cap with holes in it and use a needle (looks like a little crochet hook) to pull pieces of hair through the cap to be processed. The downsides of a cap are it can be difficult to do alone (it's much easier to have someone else pull hair on the back of your head through a cap), too much product at the root area can bleed (oversaturating the root area can cause color to sneak in through some of the holes and leave little spots on the hair underneath) and hair can "loop" when being pulled through the holes, causing uneven color (when you pull a strand of hair through the hole, some of the hair doesn't make it all the way out, causing a loop of hair to stick up).

Foils, also commonly called balayage (which is an actual foil technique, but it's often used interchangeably), are the last major method of highlight/lowlight application. Color/bleach is painted on hair and wrapped in pieces of foil to prevent bleeding onto hair that's not being processed and to establish a pattern. The width of each strand, the frequency of placement is completely up to the person doing the color. Foils can be great for a more custom look, especially if you want mid sized pieces or varying degrees of width in the strands being processed. Also, if you're using multiple colors, foils allow you to do more than one color at a time and still keep things organized. However, foils can be difficult to do without practice and you rely solely on your own judgment to determine width and pattern...which can be intimidating when you start thinking about how much hair you have and getting things even on both sides, top and bottom.

TONERS

Toners are similar to colors. Toners are used to do just that...tone and neutralize unwanted colors.

Used with a 20 volume developer, toners deposit a sheer tint of color, opposite of the color you don't want in your hair (so, if you have too much gold in your hair, you can use a violet toner to help get rid of some of that gold). Toners can also be a great way to add sheer, subtle color back into hair that has been over lightened while bleaching.

POROSITY CONTROLLERS AND PROTEIN FILLERS

 Porosity controllers help to even out hair's porosity before coloring. Hair that is overly porous can drink up color too fast, resulting in color that's too dark. Also, hair tends to be unevenly porous from root to end, strand to strand, which can result in uneven color on the same strand. Porosity controllers, when used before color, help to make hair consistently porous, so results are more predictable and truer from strand to strand. When used after color, they can be a wonderful conditioner that leaves hair soft and shiny, and helps to lock color in.

Protein fillers are used to add protein back into hair that's been over processed. Hair that's lacking in protein gives color little to hang on to, so color fades faster and can be uneven. Used either before color or added to color, protein fillers add a little something back into the hair, so color has something to stick to. This is generally a concern for blondes and areas of hair that have been bleached, when trying to go darker; however, redheads often find using a protein filler can help prolong their color as well.

BEFORE YOU COLOR

• Always do a patch and strand test, even if you've used the same exact thing before. Allergies can often develop suddenly and there are a thousand things that can affect the way color comes out that differ from one time to the next. Better to be safe than sorry.
• Shampoo and condition the day before you color. Don't shampoo immediately before coloring unless you have a lot of styling product in the hair. The scalp naturally produces oils that protect it during coloring, which won't be present if you wash right before you color. This can lead to irritation. However, if you have a lot of gunk in your hair, go ahead and wash. Styling product build up can affect the way color develops.
• Protect your work area. Even temporary color will stain clothes, sinks, floors, walls, etc. Have an old towel that you don't mind getting dirty, or some paper towels handy to clean up spills, splatters and accidental smudges on skin. Wear an old shirt that you don't mind if it gets trashed because hair color has an amazing way of seeking out and finding things it shouldn't be on. Spray on temporary colors should be used in a well ventilated area, like outside, not only for your lungs, but because the little particles of spray will go everywhere.
• Protect your hands from irritation and staining with gloves. Protect your hairline with a thin layer of petroleum jelly, but make sure you keep it off your hair! If color gets on skin that's not protected or floors/counters, attend to it immediately with soap and water. There are some hair dye stain removers on the market, but they're only effective for the first few minutes after color has come in contact with the skin.
• Have all your tools accessible and ready to go. Once you have gloves on and color on them, getting into cabinets for a comb or picking through bags because you need a second bottle of color can be a real challenge.
• Make sure you're not rushed. Take your time to do it right, especially with bleach that can take up to an hour or more to fully process. It's also a good idea to make sure animals, including significant others and small children, are good to go for a while, so you don't have to put out the dog or find Susie's shoes with dye all over you.
• Don't color your hair three hours before prom. Don't color your hair the day before your sister's wedding. Give yourself a week or more in case you have an emergency. Also, this gives you time to find new makeup colors and clothing choices (if necessary) and gives you time to become comfortable with your new color (which, if you're going for something kinda dramatic, it can take a good, solid week to recognize your reflection when you pass by a mirror and be confident and comfortable with your new look...especially when going darker).
• You can always mix colors to come up with something more personal and unique. However, it's best to stick to colors in the same brand and the same line (for example, Clairol {brand} makes Nice 'N Easy AND Hydrience {lines}, which are both permanent colors. If you're going to mix, make sure all colors are either Nice 'N Easy OR Hydrience).
• If hair is damaged, darker colors will look better on it (although, if hair is damaged, perhaps coloring isn't the best option). Darker colors reflect more light, so hair will look shinier. A trim before hand to remove split ends will also help hair look healthier after it's been colored.

AFTER YOU COLOR

• Rinse hair thoroughly. I always shampoo after color, just to make sure I got it all out and neutralize any chemicals that may still be working. If you don't get all the color out, it can run and stain clothes, make hair oily or crunchy and can even continue processing
• Use a color sealing conditioner, which helps to return hair to a normal pH. This helps to seal down the hair's cuticle, making hair shinier and helping color last longer. It also adds back moisture and protein which is lost during the coloring process.
• Be good to your hair for a while. Chemical processes damage hair. Avoid heat styling, teasing and general abuse as much as possible.
• Use a color safe shampoo. While most shampoos are okay for use on color treated hair (the main exception to this are clarifying shampoos that can strip color out of hair), color safe shampoos have less detergent, so color lasts longer. They also tend to be more moisturizing (since color treated hair tends to be dry) and some offer UV protection which can be a factor if you spend a lot of time outside or under fluorescent lights. Or, consider a color enhancing shampoo that deposits a little bit of color back into the hair, each time you wash. Brands like John Frieda and Pantene offer them for blondes, brunettes and redheads and Manic Panic offers a line of shampoos that match their colors.
• Use a good conditioner. A good, moisturizing conditioner helps keep color treated hair soft and shiny. You can use a conditioner for color treated hair if you like, but conditioners don't pose the same threat to color as shampoos. Avoid using protein conditioners more than once a month unless it's right after color or you're experiencing breakage, since too much protein can be as bad as not enough.
• Avoid washing your hair in water that's too hot. Since heat expands, it opens up the hair cuticle, allowing color to escape, which in turn leads to fading. Also avoid sun exposure without proper UV protection which can fade and alter color, and chemical exposure (like chlorine) which can also fade and alter color.
• If color has faded, but you don't really want/need to touch up your roots, consider a semi or demi color to freshen things up until you do a full color again. Several companies also offer a clear shine, commonly called a glaze,  that can be applied to natural or artificially colored hair to add shine. Clear shines can also be added to color to tone it down or dilute the intensity of a color.
• On the flip side, if you don't have time to do an all over color, but your roots really need some TLC, consider a cover stick -- A waxy, lipstick-like substance that you can smear on your roots to conceal growth. You can also find some liquid "cover sticks" now that are bona fide temporary hair color. They aren't waxy (or crispy like a mascara)…rather they go on like a liquid, offer excellent coverage and when dry, don't smear or flake. You can touch it and not get it all over your hands and even brush through it because it leaves the hair soft and manageable.
• Hair is generally darker when it's wet. Let hair dry before you panic (or rejoice, as the case may be).

MINOR EMERGENCIES
In the event of a color emergency, the fix is sometimes easier than you may think.

Keep in mind, it's probably not as bad as it seems. Easier said than done, but generally speaking, you will think something is worse than it is, because you are your own worst critic. Not always the case, but something to keep in mind.

• Mistakes are generally easier to fix if you do it IMMEDIATELY, while color is fresh and before it's had a chance to settle in and get comfy.
• Hair color that's too ashy or brassy can often be fixed by applying a toner or color with a contrasting base. Make sure you identify the actual color you're trying to neutralize, for the most accurate results. The term "brassy," suggests too much warmth. But, for the best results trying to correct brassiness, you have to determine if it's red, orange or gold -- Same with ash tones.
• Hair color that's just a little too brassy can generally be fixed with a couple washes using a blue-violet shampoo, like Artec or  Shimmer Lights. Hair that's just a little too ashy can often be fixed by using a gold shampoo.
• Hair color that's just a little too dark can often be lightened by using a clarifying treatment or shampoo as soon as possible after coloring.
• Hair color that's too light can often be fixed by using a semi or demi color, and only processing for a few minutes. Pick a color that's close to what you have in level and base. Also, consider using a color enhancing shampoo to add color back to hair that's been over lightened.
• Protect lighter shades from going green in the pool by combing through a swimmer's conditioner before you dive in. Prevention is so much easier than getting green out, once it's already in. If you already have the swimmer's green, a clarifying shampoo or treatment may take it out. A red color enhancing shampoo may also help. If not, try Metalex Hairdresser's First Aid (at beauty supply stores). Next time, use the swimmer's conditioner first.
• If hair breaks or melts off at the ends, or has an elastic-like effect while combing, leave it alone and get a good protein treatment on it, NOW. Leave it in for at least half an hour with some heat (throw a damp towel in the microwave for a few seconds and wrap it around hair). Rinse it out and let your hair dry before you do anything to it. Consider getting a trim to take off some of the worst damage. If you don't cut it off, it will break off anyway.
•  If color gets on skin and stains, try washing the area with a washcloth or loofah and a gentle exfoliating product.
•  If color is splotchy or uneven, a hair color remover mixed with water can help even out color.
•  If color is REALLY bad, go have a professional fix it. However, don't use the words "COLOR CORRECTION." In fact, don't use any words that imply you screwed up trying to do it yourself.

"Well, it's a little too dark. I'd like to lighten it up a bit."
"My color is uneven in the back. I'd like it to be lighter like it is in the front."
"It has a little too much gold in it for me. I was thinking I'd look better in a softer gold color."

Whatever.
Do what you have to do. Don't lie about it all together...do tell your stylist you have color on your hair, and if they ask, tell them what you used/what you did. But, stay calm, don't panic and play it off like you want a change as opposed to a correction, if at all possible. The word correction will add serious bucks to your bill, because they know you're at their mercy and you're probably upset and not thinking clearly.

Hair color can be dramatic and drastic or subtle and simple, depending on what your heart desires. Possibilities are endless when it comes to color, so whether you choose to do it yourself, or leave it to a stylist, the more you know before you go can mean the difference between dynamite and disastrous.

*Photos from hubpages.com, hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com, hairstylepictureshairstyles.net, sheknows.com, eternallycool.net, health-store.com, thecuuttingchair.com